The vintage clothing world is a fascinating niche in the fashion industry. It revives what was once old and discarded, what has traveled from place to place, or person to person. It brings the story full circle: from a time and place where things were conceptualized and created with more involvement and skill, to a modern time where consumers yearn for items of unique design and superior quality.
For an expert take on the subject, I weigh in with two NYC-area vintage dealers: Meika Franz who, along with her husband, owns Another Man’s Treasure vintage shop in Jersey City, NJ, and the proprietor of Jellyroll Vintage, a regular vendor at the Brooklyn Flea.
Although so many people are fans of vintage clothing, there are also many people who don’t understand it at all. So, my first question to the two gals is: What makes vintage so special? Both dealers agree that with vintage clothing each piece is unique, and the quality is vastly superior when compared to modern fashions.
AMT: For one, you know no one else will have the same item, and when it fits, it’s like it was made for you. Its also an affordable way to get high-quality or even designer items. Also, there is a true history to the piece.
JRV: With vintage, each piece is unique, and the quality superior. You’re not going to get the same quality that was put out only 20 years ago, even with modern mass-produced clothing. I can simply look at a rack and pull out items that are vintage because when you work with vintage long enough you can see the quality at a glance, even if it’s just a pattern in a 70’s polyester shirt. Its pretty stunning.
What are your main fashion influences, and what looks do you try to consistently bring to your customer?
AMT: Barbara Hulunki from BIBA has been a great inspiration to me, as well as Coco Chanel, Vivenne Westwook, and Debbie Harry. I love various vintage styles though, and try to always keep a diverse selection with a high level of quality. We’ve had a big demand for early vintage, 1920’s-40’s, as well as 90’s.
JRV: In my booth, you never know what you’ll find. My collection ranges from 1940’s to 90’s, and I focus on colorful items, paying attention to cool patterns and interesting textures.
What trends do you see your customers purchasing right now?
JRV: The 90’s have come roaring back with little floral dresses, oxford shoes, and folded socks (think Elaine on Seinfeld). It’s all circular; Every decade comes back in style eventually. Trends in vintage mirror the trends in modern fashion, and sometimes getting the same request from everyone for the items seen everywhere can be difficult. Vintage is about not looking like everyone else.
Both dealers also agree that AMC’s Mad Men has had a huge influence on the vintage as well as modern fashion industry, something this shopper is personally grateful for!
AMT: I think Mad Men’s influence has been quite positive. I’ve definately seen it inspire people to dress up more, including men. More interest in men’s accessories (tie bars, pocket squares, hats, etc.). I think it’s also influenced the comback of curves, which we’re now seeing on the runways for Fall.
JRV: I love Mad Men’s effect on the trends. Its keeping it all alive with really attractive shape that flatters everyone.
While there are many people actively seeking great vintage clothing, there are still those people who don’t understand the value of it. However, a vintage dealer can’t just order these items from a factory, they have to find these items, make sure they’re clean, mended, and in selling condition. They also have to put the work into operating an independent business!
Could you share a specific tale of what a day-in-the-life might be like for you as a vintage clothing dealer?
AMT: We source our pieces in many different ways. Sometimes it’s as easy as a customer bringing something in to sell, but most of the time it’s us going out, traveling far and wide to find things… and sometimes not finding anything! On one occasion we travelled 2 hours to a barn in the middle of nowhere on rainy, gloomy day. We sorted through 30 bags of clothing in that dingy barn with only the very little natural light available. The decent pieces we found all had to be hand-washed or mended before being sold. That was 3 years ago; I think I might still have some items from that lot!
JRV: I just got about 20 garbage bags of a collection from one couple who apparently never threw anything away. Half of it was stained and destroyed. My job was to go through, separate it by season, clean it all, steam some of it, and price it. Then I schlep it to the market in hopes of selling it. It’s hard work, but it was fun to go through. I put together these people’s lives through what they wore. It’s taxing, but pretty interesting and rewarding as well.
What is it that you like so much about vintage clothing, in comparison to the modern clothing industry?
AMT: I find the lack of craftsmanship and quality in modern clothing to be most disappointing. Most likely, what you can buy at high-end department stores is truly no different than what you can buy at inexpensive stores like H&M or Forever 21. Most of the items are likely made in the very same factories overseas. The lack of a textile industry in America means we can no longer make clothing the way we used to.
JRV: I have a hard time buying new clothing after being inundated in vintage clothing for so many years. Ours society is wasteful, and buying clothing that you know is too cheap to be true has consequences that go beyond not getting a good deal.
Both dealers also agree that buying vintage is a great way to be green and to feel good about your purchases!
JRV: When you buy vintage you can feel good about recycling and receiving a unique and quality garment to boot. This is why vintage matters!
Check out Another Man’s Treasure and visit Jellyroll Vintage at the Brooklyn Flea every weekend, or at JellyrollVintage@blogspot.com.
Image provided by Another Man’s Treasure.
